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How to Climb Mt Damavand

Mount Damavand Winter Climb

The Official Website of the Mount Damavand Guides

Winter Climb and Wild Skitouring Mt Damawand Iran

Damavand is a popular mountaineering peak for summer. It is surly one of the most difficult ones in the world for winter climbing. Despite its mild climbing ridges and lack of technical difficulties, freezing temperature and strong winds makes ascend very difficult. The South trail is the best side for climbs and skitours. Climbing is much more difficult in other faces.

Visit also Mount Damavand Winter Weather Warning.

Mount Damavand Winter Climbing
Damavand Mountain Winter Climbing

Due to vicinity of the Caspian Sea, there are heavy winter snow falls in the area. The amount of snow fall is different each year. It is recommended to check the ice and snow condition in advance. In winter, cars can not go up to the base camp and it is not possible to use mules in the area. So you should carry all equipments yourself or hire porters.

Shelters are open during winter, but huts may be closed. Camp2 Goosfand Sara and Camp3 Bargah Sevom refuges need cleaning from snow and garbage if you are luckky enough to find them under snow!

For a successful climb in winter, you need a very high skilled experienced guide. You should be very experinced, well-equipped. You need a good timing and fine weather. You must be well supported and be ready for any risky and unexpected condition. Visit also Winter Equipments.

Damavand Winter

(From mid November, December, January, February and mid March)
The winter season may start from October to November and last to May and April. In this period climbing to Damavand summit is very tough and dangerous. Because of high wind speed and very low temperature, stormy weather conditions, too much snowfall, icy trails and other risks.

Winter ascend and ski mountaineering is graded as very difficult. The ski and snowboard season is from December to mid May, the best ski months are March & April.

Mt Damawand South Route Starting Point in Winter

Gravel Road Junction No 5 in GPS Landmarks
Start of gravel road to basecamp, when it is imposible to use the gravel road by car due to snowfall and ice condition of the road in winter, start climbing from this point.
When you travel either from Tehran or North of Iran, you will come to this junction anyway.

Winter Strating point GPS Waypoint

35-52-47 N
52-07-16 E
2458 m

Reinhold Messner

In 1970 when Reinhold Messner attempted a winter ascend to Mt Damavand Iran, due to adverse weather conditionshe failed, because he realized that despite a lack of technical difficulties, is not an easy mountain climbing, but a tough and difficult alpine challenge.

Wikipedia in Deutsch:
Reinhold Messner ist im Jahre 1970 bei seinem Versuch, den Damāvand zu besteigen, aufgrund von widrigen Wetterverhältnissen gescheitert; daran erkennt man, dass der Damāvand trotz mangelnder technischer Schwierigkeiten kein einfacher Wanderberg, sondern eine große konditionelle und hochalpine Herausforderung ist.

Damavand Winter Starting Point
Damavand Winter Starting Point

Winter Mount Damavand Iran
Damavand Mountain in Winter

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