Winter Climb
Mt Damavand Iran Winter Climb
Damavand is a popular mountaineering peak for summer, it is surly one of the most difficult ones in the world for winter climb, despite its mild climbing ridges and lack of technical difficulties, freezing weather and strong winds makes ascend very difficult. Mount Damavand south route is the best side in winter, climbing is more difficult in other faces, due to vicinity of Caspian Sea, there is a heavy winter snow fall in the mountain, cars can not go up to the base camp and it is not possible to use mules in the area, so you should carry all equipments yourself or hire porters.


All Damavand shelters are open during winter, but huts may be closed, camp2 and camp3 need some cleaning from snow and garbage if you are luckky enough to find them under snow! The winter condition in the region starts from December till early March, the amount of snow differs each year, it is recommended to check the condition in advance.
For a successful climb in winter, you should be very experinced and well equipped , you need a good timing and fine weather, well supported and be ready for any risky and unexpected condition in Mt Damavand.


Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner in 1970 when he attempted a winter climb to Mt Damavand , due to adverse weather conditions failed, because he realized that Mt Damavand despite a lack of technical difficulties, is not an easy mountain hiking, but a large and highly conditional alpine challenge.

Warning
Remember weather condition in Mt Damavand could change to disastrous in winter, with strong winds up to 100km/h and freezing temprature reaching -60°C at the summit , you must be well-experienced for such a difficult climb or ski mountaineering expeditions in harsh climate in Mt Damavand, and further more remember that rescue and medical facilities are not available in case of injury and emergency you need a good luck for surviving, so extra care should be taken for climbing and ski in Mt Damavand in winter and it is done by your own risk.

Reference
Wikipedia in Deutsch:
Reinhold Messner ist im Jahre 1970 bei seinem Versuch, den Damāvand zu besteigen, aufgrund von widrigen Wetterverhältnissen gescheitert; daran erkennt man, dass der Damāvand trotz mangelnder technischer Schwierigkeiten kein einfacher Wanderberg, sondern eine große konditionelle und hochalpine Herausforderung ist.

Map How to reach Mt. Damavand

Camp 1 Reineh 2078 m - 6,817
Tehran > Haraz Road > Reineh > Reineh Camp .( approx 2.5 Hours )
If you travel from north of Iran, ie Gilan or Mazandaran province, you may use this way, but if you came from Tehran you have a better option and you may go to:

Camp 1 Polour 2270 m - 7,447 ft
Tehran > Haraz Road > Polour > Polour Camp . ( approx 1.5 Hours )
If you travel from Tehran, Polour is much shorter and better way for you. This is a new established camp and belongs to Iranian Mountain Climbing Federation .

Camp 2 Base 3040 m - 9,973 ft
Farsi Name Goosfand Sara Camp .
In winter even strong cars like 4WD Jeeps and land rovers can not carry you to the 2nd Camp / shelter , the Base Camp, because the gravel road is full of snow and ice, so you have to srart your climb from the junction beginning of the gravel road.
If you live in a city with low elevation, like the sea level , you may have extra rest here but remember this camp is not suitable for use in summer , because it is too crowded and too dirty . See also Warning to climbers. You may start your climbing to the camp3 after one night rest here. ( read note 1)

Camp 3 Bargah 4220 m - 13,845 ft
Farsi name Bargah Sevom Camp
By 6 to 8 hours climb you reach the Bargahe Sevom Camp in winter, you have to carry heavy equipments yourself , there is no mule and porters in the area. No foot paths , it is not easy to find them , go slow and steady , if you start in the morning you have enough time , use the day light only , never start in the darkness .

GPS Landmarks
5- Gravel Road Junction
start of gravel road to base camp damavand , you should start climbing to damavand from here , specially in winter when it is imposible to use the gravel road by car because of snow and ice condition . If you travel either from Tehran or north of Iran to mount damavand , you will come to this junction anyway.
35-52-47 N
52-07-16 E
2458 m

Tours

4- Rock, Boulder and Ice Climbing Tours
We offer private rock, boulder and ice climbing tours, covering a variety of iran mountain climbing activities, which range from a simple mountaineering, ideal for complete beginner, up to advanced winter climbing and alpine style, with high qualified guides to share their experience to give you the best chance of success.
There are some big climbing walls in Iran, Alam Koh wall about 800 meters is the hightest, starting at 4200m to the summit well known for foreign climbers.

- Mount Alam koh 4850m, Kelardasht, Gilan Provice, Iran
- Mount Alvand, Hamedan, Hamedan Provice
- Mt Sabalan 4820, Ardebil, Ardabil Provice
- Mount Tochal 3960m, Tehran- Ice Climbing, Hamaloon icefall

Visit also our weblogs: Mount Damavand Guide , Iran Natur and Iran Culture.

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Winter Climb MDIC22OCT11N